Journeys with Sonia

My Travels Around the World

Author: Sonia Page 8 of 15

Fortuna Bay, Stromness Harbor and Prion Island: Day 11

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On November 4, 2017

In South Georgia

Saturday Nov 4, 2017

Fortuna Bay

The hikers among us were up early to walk in Shackleton’s footsteps on his last leg of his epic crossing of South Georgia, up the mountain and down the other side. The hike was 4 miles long with 1000 feet of elevation over tussock grass, snow, mud, grass, gravel, boulders, glacial plains with streams and varying depths of snow.  We dropped them off at Fortuna Bay and then continued on our way to Stromness Harbor.

Bay of Stromness

We opted instead to go up to the bridge, where Eduardo was drinking his mate (an Argentinian green tea) , and where we watched us sail into the Bay of Stromness with its whaling station. From the bridge we could see some small black dots in the snow, moving down the glacier.  This was some of our people, at the end of their hike, sliding down the snow the way Shackleton and his men did.

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Drygalski Fjord – Larsen Harbor and Copper Bay: Day 10

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On November 3, 2017

In South Georgia

Friday Day 10 November 3, 2017

Drygalski Fjord

It was a cold, rainy and windy day. We threw on some warm clothes and made our way to the bridge. We were in a cove of the southernmost fjord in South Georgia, Drygalski Fjord, at the very end of it, standing in front of huge glaciers. This fjord is 8.5 miles long and its scenery was exquisite. There were snow petrels flying everywhere, their white feathers often blending into the snow behind them. We learned that 60% of South Georgia is glacier, but most of the glaciers do not make it all the way to the water’s edge. This glacier descends down the mountain right into the bay. It was white, with crevices in blue, and then whole large areas that were a frosted blue (which means the ice is more dense). The glaciers are so strong that they carve the mountains, giving the fiord a dramatic look. And the mountains? They are 6000-7000 feet tall.

So as I stood on the bow of the ship, literally being blown away, not only by the strong winds coming down the glacier, but by the majestic beauty of the surrounding brown and green mountains dotted with white snow, white and blue glaciers, and water that alternated between light blue, dark blue and turquoise. We watched a lone whale dancing in and out of the water. We watched the movement of the water.  And we were awed.

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Gold Harbor and St Andrews Cove: Day 9

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On November 2, 2017

In South Georgia

November 2, 2017

Sunrise

This morning’s wake up call was at 445am. We got up quickly, put on layer after layer of clothes, grabbed our life jackets and headed out to watch the sun rise over Gold Harbor. Gold Harbor, called this because the sun’s rays make the cliffs yellow with their light in the morning and in the evening. And that’s why we got up early, to reach the beach as the sun was rising and the light was golden.

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Grytviken and the Bay of Godthul: South Georgia Day 8

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On November 1, 2017

In South Georgia

Wednesday, Nov 1, 2017

Grytviken

Grytviken is the old whaling station on South Georgia Island. Some of the staff from South Georgia Heritage Trust, which runs the station and the museum, came on board to tell us a bit about whaling. They joined us for breakfast and could not get enough fruit. When you live in such isolation, every visitor is a gift. After breakfast we all went ashore to hike around, tour the station and visit the South Georgia Museum.

And as we pulled into the cove, we could see what was left of the station. Old rusted ships. The buildings. The rusted containers that once held the whale oil. And the cemetery.  Not just any cemetery.  But more on that later.

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Arriving at Elsehul Bay, South Georgia: Day 7

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On October 31, 2017

In South Georgia

October 31, 2017 Halloween

Good morning, good morning – we made it!

We got our wake up call, which is Doug coming on over the intercom saying, “Good morning, good morning…” at 7:00am. Turns out we made great time crossing the Scotia Sea and since we arrived earlier than originally planned, we had the chance to start touring early.

Elsehul Bay

We anchored at Elsehul Bay, described to us as “incredibly picturesque and stunning.” This is an amphitheater of a bay which we would be exploring by zodiac, searching the shoreline for Albatross and other seabirds.

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Days at Sea – The Scotia Sea on the way to South Georgia: Days 5&6

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On October 30, 2017

In South Georgia

Sunday-Monday, October 29-30, 2017

Rock ‘n Roll

Last night, ropes suddenly appeared all along the halls of the ship. Something to hold on to. The chairs were already tied down, and the silverware was placed inside the napkins. And as we left Stanley and hit the open waters, the ship began “rockin ‘n rollin.” Literally. Rocking. Rolling.

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Port Stanley, The Falklands: Day 4

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On October 28, 2017

In Falklands

Saturday Oct 28, 2017

The Falklands

This was our second day in the Falklands, this time on East Falklands. We docked at FIPASS – Falklands Interim Port and Storage System.  Although it is called the “Interim” port, it has been there for twenty years. I opened my blinds and was staring right at the buildings on the dock. The shapes and the colors immediately struck me. And it was clear we were in a British colony as right outside my window were British telephone booths.  And a workman walking as if he were the British Imperial guard, but with a hard hat instead of a bearskin (the tall fur cap). And of course, I could see all the houses with their colorful roofs.

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The Falklands: West Point and Carcass Islands: Day 3

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On October 27, 2017

In Falklands

Friday, Oct 27, 2017

Today would have been my father’s 95th birthday. Unfortunately, he never lived to see 53. He would have loved that I travel. He loved to travel too.  That is probably where I got that gene.

Flying Penguins

I woke up this morning, and as I do every morning, I immediately opened our blinds to look out. This morning I was greeted by the sight of penguins porpoising (not sure if that is really a word, but the penguins were jumping out of the water and “flying” like porpoises do).

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Life on the MS Nat Geo Explorer: Day 2

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On October 26, 2017

In Falklands

Thursday Oct 26, 2017

They let us sleep until 8 this morning. And warned us that would be the first and last day we get to sleep late. This was a day at sea as we made our way to the Falkland Islands.

Breakfast and lunch are always buffet. We lined up but the lines always went quickly on two sides of the central island. For breakfast there was always fresh fruit, cucumber (while it lasted – by day 9 it was no longer to be seen), tomatoes, bell peppers in green, yellow and red, cheeses, meats, lox, chia pudding (we tried it one morning and for us that was enough), potatoes, scrambled eggs or eggs to order, oatmeal, yogurts, granola and other cereals, and the best breads ever.  Coffee, lattes, cappuccinos and teas were always available, and hot chocolate! This was one fattening trip!  These pictures are from different days on the trip, just to show some of the variety.

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Heading to the Falklands and South Georgia Island: Day 1

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On October 25, 2017

In Argentina

Wednesday, Oct 25, 2017

Leaving Buenos Aires

Wake-up call was at 545.  And thus the trip began. We all gathered for breakfast in the Sofitel hotel. You could feel the excitement and anticipation. We were off on a National Geographic (Nat Geo for short) trip to the Falklands (or Islas Malvinas as the Argentinians call it – more on this later) and South Georgia Island. A place people say is one of the most beautiful in the world.

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